Les Dessous des Cartes

There were no vapour-trails and not a cloud in the sky when I was driving home through Sainte-Cécile in the middle of Tuesday morning.
<Glycine/Wisteria Floribunda
I waved to Claude, who made the almost imperceptible Vendée nod of the head which signals "Arrête-toi une minute pour discuter un peu".


He commented on the volcano-induced chaos in the air-travel industry, then said;

"Il faut que je taille ma glycine, Alan. Sinon elle devient envahissante."

Claude stops his vélo level with the car. He has a box, which he made seventy-five years ago from four pieces of poplar, on the luggage rack. In the box there are two lettuces and a sizeable, fin-de-saison leek. The scent of the latter, more delicate than oignon, drifts past his front tyre, my nose and then on towards the Place de la Mairie.

Here in Vendée, the definition of "Une minute" allows for a generous degree of interpétation.

So an hour and a bit later, we are still in Claude's kitchen, with a 1933 road map, which I found on a nerds-R-us foray into a bookshop the previous afternoon, spread out on his table.

Neither of us has noticed the passing of time, as we emerge from the labyrinth of anecdotes which unfolded themselves along with La Carte Michelin.

"Quatre francs pour une carte; c'était beaucoup"...

Claude tells me that when he started work in 1933 at fourteen years old, he was paid 2 francs a day as an apprentice joiner.

"Par contre, j'étais nourri et logé", he adds, explaining that it was normal practice for young workers to receive board and lodging if they were some distance from home.

Claude's eyes are clear blue, and his immaculate pullover is the same colour. Since his wife died, ten years ago, he has kept his house in immaculate order. "C'est ainsi qu'elle aurait voulu que je fasse", he says. [using a conditional perfect and a subjunctive which is really going to stuff up the bilingual approach. Ed].

We look closer at the géographie.

"Ah. Le Petit Train. Il allait de Chantonnay, et passait par St Vincent, puis Sainte-Cécile et à travers champs jusqu'à LOie".

We trace the Tramway symbol along the N137 and across country, linking communes and communautés.

"Il y avait deux voitures à Sainte-Cécile quand je suis arrivé en 1923. Tout le monde prenait le Petit Train. Ce n'était pas trop confortable, avec des sièges en bois..."

Claude has lived in the village since he was 5, and well remembers the two cars of his childhood.

According to Claude, the charcutier had a van which was very difficult to start, requiring adjustment of the ignition via a lever on the steering wheel, much swearing and easy access to lard for damaged knuckles occasioned by the starting-handle.

"L'épicier possédait un véhicule qui démarrait mieux". But the grocer's van had a chain drive "Which had a big cog on the back axle, and a smaller one near the engine. Like a vélo, but back-to-front. Otherwise it would have gone too fast, we thought as boys."

"Les chaînes faisait un boucant incroyable. Et les vitres étaient en mica, une sorte de plastique mais pas très transparent. C'était dangereux"

<Le rêve de l'Epicier en 1933? Pour les Lingonerds: Le Michelin Man s'appelle Bibendum en français, du latin bibere/boire. "Le pneu Michelin boit l'obstacle..."(Publicité Michelin, début 20è siècle)

What was also dangereux, he said, was Le Petit Train which passed on its narrow-gauge through the village four or five times a day.

"Mon petit frère se prenait la roue de son vélo dans le rail, et il est tombé plusieurs fois"

Claude's little brother was more fortunate than the old lady who, one winter night around the time of La Grande Dépression, and because of the darkness and her deafness, failed to hear the train's warning bell outside where Docteur Maigre's surgery is now.

"Elle a été tuée sur le coup. Je m'en souviens très bien. J'étais gosse, j'avais neuf ou dix ans".

Claude's clock strikes eleven. We fold away the map, and go outside to trim the wisteria before sharing a glass of Muscat de Rivesaltes.

Lexique; Juste un peu de langage familier pour aujourd'hui.

Un gosse; C'est un enfant. On dit aussi un môme, et en Vendée, un drôle. Ce qui est amusant, non?

Un boucant; C'est un bruit fort et désagréable.

...et vous voudrez peut-être chercher envahissant dans le dictionnaire si vous n'arrivez pas à imaginer une glycine qui pousse très vite et qui passe partout.